IN 1987, THERE WERE an
estimated six million buffalo in the Kingdom. But now, just 12 years later,
those numbers have dropped to 1.8 million. The introduction of the
"Mechanical Buffalo" (rice paddy tractor) is the
major cause of the declining numbers,
while changing dietary habits among the Thai people as well as the demand
for beef by thousands of tourists visiting Chiangmai every year, has led to
the wholesale slaughter of buffalo
for meat. This huge decline in numbers is visible, or more accurately, NOT
visible to one and all. Just a few years ago, visitors to Chiangmai would
see buffalo working in the rice paddies, grazing in the fields, on the sides
of the roads and even on Huay
Kaew Road, where a couple of magnificent animals grazed happily for
all to see in a field. They were a part of everyday life; for the farmer
they were indispensable, and for the passerby, a sight to remind you that
you really were in Asia, despite the concrete jungle of the modern city to
which we have become accustomed. The farmers gave the family buffalo an
endearing nickname "Ai Tui" meaning younger uncle fatty.
Years ago when the farmers fought the incursion of the
Burmese in Bang La Chan village, buffalo were used in warfare due to the
lack of horses or elephants in that area. When you travel to Singhburi you
will see a statue commemorating the courage of the Thai warriors and buffalo
alike.
The buffalo found work plowing the paddy fields; it has been
used to turn water wheels for irrigation and grinding wheels to crush sugar
cane. It has been a means of transport for centuries, conveying farmers to
their fields. It has also provided countless hours of entertainment, buffalo
racing being a favorite sport of the villagers. Sadly, modernization has
taken its toll, and there is no stopping progress. That does not mean,
however, that the buffalo should join the long list of animals already
extinct. It is a peaceful, docile animal and despite its size and shape, is
surprisingly pleasing to the eye. There is something about its movements and
demeanor that convey a sense of tranquillity, and to allow it to disappear
would change the vision of Asia all of us have in our minds.
One project dedicated to saving the buffalo, possibly the
first of its kind in Thailand, has recently opened on the outskirts of Mae
Rim, just a few kilometers north of Chiangmai. Situated on approximately 21
rai of farm land, Mae Rim Buffalo Training Camp enjoys magnificent views of
the scenic Doi Suthep mountains, and is the perfect place to experience the
atmosphere of Thai country life of years ago, as you watch farmers and
buffalo working the fields in traditional style.
The aim of Mae Rim Buffalo Training Camp is to preserve the
traditional way of life of the Thai farmer and the buffalo. When you visit
the camp, you will watch a demonstration of skill as buffaloes are taught
working commands such as: "Turn left", "Turn right" and "Go straight". You
will see a water wheel operated by buffalo, providing irrigation to fields,
and you will watch a farmer and buffalo work as a team, plowing a rice
paddy. You will also see sugar processed from raw cane as a buffalo turns a
pulping machine. This amazing piece of equipment is completely handmade of
wood in a design that has been in use for hundreds of years, and is a superb
working example of the ingenuity of the Thai people. Visitors to the camp
will watch an incredible show of skill and dexterity as handlers demonstrate
many different ways of mounting and dismounting the animal. This is more
than just a way of getting on the back of the buffalo, it is an art form
that has been developed over centuries. The buffalo handler is usually
introduced to his animal at an early age and over the years, as they grow
older, a bond is formed. The handler will become so at home on the back of
his buffalo, that he will often play music on a bamboo flute while he
relaxes, or even lie back and fall fast asleep while the animal grazes
peacefully in the fields. You can sit back and marvel at these antics,
before experiencing the thrill of a buffalo race as farmers compete against
each other for fun.
After the show, visit the folk museum. This traditional Thai
farmhouse is not just a living recreation of times long gone by, but also
allows you to experience a lifestyle maintained to this day in the rural
countryside of northern Thailand. Finally, round off this cultural
experience with the thrill of a lifetime as you ride a buffalo through the
peaceful valley, enjoying the scenery from a view point you will never
forget.
A visit to
Mae Rim Buffalo
Training Camp is a
must for any visitor wanting to witness and experience the culture of
Asia as we
imagine it. Tractors, threshing machines and other mechanical devices are
not only widely available, but now affordable as well. The farmer's life has
always been a simple one, but also arduous, and no one can blame them for
wanting to ease their work load, while increasing their productivity. This
should not, however, sound the death knell for the buffalo, and by visiting
Mae Rim Buffalo Training Camp, you will be doing your bit to preserve a part
of Thai culture that could soon be lost forever.
For more information, contact Khun Boonta at Fax: 844818
Mobile telephone: 01-8822331.
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Wat Sean Fang |
Wat Buppharam |
Wat Mahawan |
Wat Chetawan |
